Germany and England Tour Travelogue Six
Dear Friends,
The old adage that time flies when you’re having fun has never seemed more real than it did to the boys and young men of the Georgia Boy Choir when they realized that their week-long Residency at Truro Cathedral was half over, and that this three-week odyssey would soon be coming to an end. And so, they resolved to make the absolute most of the remaining few days.
The Truro School, which has served as their home for the week, sits high upon a hill overlooking the city of Truro and the beautiful Cornish countryside. At the highest point on this hill there is an immaculately groomed athletic field where the boys gathered on Thursday morning to receive a lesson in the quintessentially British game of Cricket, which has been one of England’s favorite pastimes since the middle of the 16th century. A couple of the school’s coaches were on hand to help. After learning the basic rules of the game, they received instruction in the techniques of batting, bowling, and fielding. Then, they were divided into four teams for a tournament. Given their desire to do all things with excellence, the choristers really put forth their very best efforts. The coaches were extremely impressed with their natural athleticism, especially when it came to fielding and throwing. Many said it was their favorite activity of the tour – so far.
After the cricket match, the Choir members were invited to have a quick, friendly soccer match with a professional under-21 soccer team that was also making use of the school’s wonderful sports complex. The pros were exceptionally kind to the young players, and it was thrilling to get to be on the pitch with them. When the Georgia Boy Choir managed to score a goal, there was tremendous euphoria.
After lunch and a short nap, the afternoon, of course found them back in the Cathedral for Evensong. Most of the music they sang was expressly written for Truro Cathedral or by composers who had a close association with it. The eponymous Magnificat and Nunc Dimitis known as “The Truro Service” by Gabriel Jackson is a haunting, a capella setting of the prayerful texts. The Georgia Boy Choir delivered a thoughtfully nuanced performance and navigated the tricky key changes with seeming ease. The anthem for the evening “Bring Us, O Lord God” was composed by Philip Stopford who is a former organist at the Cathedral. It has become a staple in the Boy Choir’s repertoire and their rendering of it on this night was sublime.
Tin Mining was an important industry in Cornwall as early as 2000 BC, and continued until about 25 years ago, when the last Tin Mine closed. Abandoned mines dot the landscape. On Friday morning, the Choir drove about an hour south, through a cold rain, to visit one of those closed mines. They were guided by a retired miner who had spent most of his life working there. The boys listened with rapt attention as he told tales of his experiences and explained the process of extracting tin from beneath the soil. They even got to venture down into one of the old shafts. It was a fascinating experience.
They were still in high spirits when it came time for Evensong that afternoon, but the energy and enthusiasm were masterfully channeled into focused, beautifully balanced singing by the Choir’s Associate Conductor, Duane White. The Magnificat and Nunc Dimitis in C by Charles Villiers Stanford was thrilling to hear as was Charles Wood’s masterpiece, “O Thou, the Central Orb.”
Saturday was what is sometimes referred to as a “dumb day” because the Choir was not scheduled to sing. They took advantage of this happenstance to go just a little farther afield and immerse themselves in the history, myth, and stunning scenery of Tintagel Castle on Cornwall’s rugged northern coast. Situated on the clifftops of a jagged headland protruding into the sea, the site is subject to sometimes fierce conditions. Access to the castle is via a bridge that sits high above a rocky chasm, but on this day, the winds were so strong (a steady 40 mph with gusts up to 60 mph), that the bridge was closed. But having arrived at low tide, the Choir was able to climb down some stairs to the entrance of “Merlin’s Cave.” According to the legend as described by Alfred, Lord Tennyson, it was here that the waves brought the infant King Arthur to shore and Merlin the Magician carried him to safety. The boys really loved exploring the inside of the cave, which was only accessible because of the low tide. In a few hours, it would all be underwater.
A few miles south of Tintagel is the picturesque town of Port Isaac (aka Port Wenn if you are a “Doc Martin” fan). Though most of the choristers were not familiar with the “Doc Martin” TV series, which is filmed here, they nonetheless enjoyed wandering around its quaint streets and eating ice cream. The lovely village is also the home of the Fisherman’s Friends singing group which is credited with the revival of the popularity of Sea Chanties.
Call time on Sunday morning, the Choir’s final day in residence at Truro Cathedral, was early in order to prepare to sing in the service of Choral Eucharist. The service opened with the Choir’s singing John Rutter’s “Open Thou Mine Eyes” from the west end of the Nave before processing to the Quire in the east end. Even from this distant position, the Choir’s dulcet tones easily filled the large space because of its fabulous acoustic. At the appropriate points in the service, the boys presented Benjamin Britten’s exciting Missa Brevis in D which was extremely well received by the congregants as was James MacMillan’s haunting anthem, “O Radiant Dawn.”
Evensong on Sundays is at 4:00 pm, slightly earlier than during the week. As the boys assembled in the stalls for the final time, they relished every moment and every note in order to maximize their experience. As they sang American composer, David Hogan’s Magnificat and Nunc Dimitis in D-flat, it was evident to all that they were pouring everything they had into their singing. When the soaring and powerful Gloria Patri came to an end, it seemed the reverberation lasted just a little longer than usual in order to savor the moment. It was something they would treasure all their lives.
Before their thoughts could turn to their return trip, it was time to celebrate the experiences and accomplishments of the last three weeks. For this purpose, a delicious and beautiful dinner was waiting for them in the Great Hall at the Alverton. As the boys and young men enjoyed the delectable cuisine, they were encouraged to reflect among themselves about their own personal highlights of the tour. Before the dessert course, Mr. White acknowledged the accomplishments they had all achieved together and thanked the Choir Staff, the Chaperones, and the incredible Audio/Video Team that is the Jones family.
Mr. White then turned his attention to retiring organist, Scott Atchison. Mr. Atchison has been the Choir’s organist since its inception; but he has been far more than that. He has also been an advocate, a friend, a supporter, a cheerleader, an encourager, and a fan of the Choir. His constant example of insistence on the highest possible standard of musical excellence has been an inspiration to all. Everyone in the room raised their glasses and drank a toast in his honor. At that point, one of the young men, broke into song, and shortly the rest of the Young Men’s Ensemble joined in. Unbeknownst to him, the Choir members had been preparing their own tribute to Mr. Atchison, and sang the traditional Scottish song, “The Parting Glass.” Mr. Atchison was flabbergasted and rendered totally speechless. Mr. White then presented him with a Crystal Vase and announced that he would now assume the title of Organist Emeritus of the Georgia Boy Choir. Unprompted, the choristers then lined up, and, one by one, thanked Mr. Atchison, shook his hand, or gave him a hug, and let him know how grateful they are to him. It was a very special moment.
On Monday, they all began the long journey home, which actually took them first to London, then back through Munich, before finally arriving back in Atlanta and the loving arms of their families. But they are not the same as when they left. They have been affected by being on tour with the Georgia Boy Choir. They see the world differently. They are now wiser, more compassionate, more open to Beauty, more capable, more self-reliant, more willing to lend a helping hand, and better able to pack their own suitcase than they were just three weeks earlier.
On the occasion of that last Evensong, the Archdeacon of Cornwall, Paul Bryer, who delivered the homily, referenced the Georgia Boy Choir’s tagline of “Ordinary Boys, Extraordinary Opportunities” and used it as a truth for all people to recognize the extraordinary opportunities that that exist for all of us, ordinary people though we are, to know and connect with the Almighty in our daily lives. If you have followed along with these travelogues and video logs as the Georgia Boy Choir has traveled throughout southern Germany and England, it is our hope that, perhaps vicariously, you have enjoyed the experience along with us. It is also our hope that you might recognize that extraordinary opportunities like these do not come about without the financial help of some extraordinary people. If you are among those who have helped along the way, thank you. We could not have done it without you. If you would like to help the Georgia Boy Choir continue to give Ordinary Boys Extraordinary Opportunities, we would be most grateful for your support. Contributions can be made through our website or through the links provided in this message.
Until next time,
The 2023 Georgia Boy Choir Tour Team